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Lingerie Expedition: Day 1 Dispatch

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Gorilla style! My hands look huge in this photo, they're actually doll-sized.
I've been teasing you guys about my trip on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram so it's about time I revealed my cards. I'm going to give you the "meeting itinerary" down below, but first I'd like to share 5 interesting tidbits from my first day: 

1. Poland has a mother of full bust lingerie. I was told today there's a woman who essentially introduced these sizes to Poland and who now consults with the brands and runs workshops for retailers. I want to talk to her so, SO bad.

2. You can, in fact, get lost for 4 1/2 hours in a quest to find a bra store. Hahaha! If you're in Warsaw and saw a woman wondering around in circles and wearing a brown coat, that was totally me. For the record, Warsaw is an easy city to navigate. It's on a grid and there's a lot of public transportation options so you can now understand how idiotic and stubborn I can be.

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Lingerie Expedition: All Quiet on the Eastern Front

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Coming your way very, very soon...
When I was planning this trip, I had a clear schedule and idea of how I'd like it to go down on Miss Underpinnings. I wanted to post as I go, introducing or providing information to you guys as I received it myself. Riiiight. I would actually love to do that because my gut reactions are fierce creatures who dwell in a fiery pit and like to come out to make mischief. (Come visit me at Curve NY sometime, it's not awkward at all when I loudly burst out, "That bra sucked!" in a brand's booth. Manners? No. Foot in mouth? Yes.) Even though that was my plan and I'd prefer that method, I realized quickly that it wasn't going to work. The companies I'm meeting with are following my posts and keeping track of your questions. I'll bring up a reader comment and they already know what I'm going to say! 
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Lingerie Expedition: An Intimate Reflection

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You know this sassy lady is Polish.
Throughout this journey, I felt as if it was something I had to do. I also felt nuts. Ha! I was told repeatedly by the brand owners themselves that they thought I was "crazy". During this experience, in certain quiet moments, I would feel this pit of doubt swell up around me. When I sat down on the bed in my hostel after my flight, I thought: What are you doing here?! What are you thinking!? Zack and I aren't rich. We live in a quiet village in a modest apartment so to afford this trip, we essentially emptied our savings. When I try to express my gratitude to him, I come up empty. How can you communicate to someone who has been that trustworthy and generous?  Even on the blog, when everyone would comment on how brave and heroic I was, I felt like the biggest fake. I was terrified.

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Polish Lingerie 101: Cleavage

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 I found it nearly impossible to keep myself from comparing the British full bust brands with the Polish ones I encountered. It was the biggest challenge of my trip and I believe it's an easy mistake to make when ordering internationally. If we approach these producers as if they're the British brands in disguise, we will continually be disappointed, frustrated, and confused. The British brands preach a singular and consistent message about correct bra fitting, proper breast appearance, and technical construction. It's inevitable that their devoted converts -- and I count myself as one! -- would want to apply their mandates to other lingerie cultures. However, if we remove our familiar conceptions of how these companies should be, we can understand Polish lingerie in it's own context.  So, here's the first mistake I made and the first section of our class, Polish lingerie 101:

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Polish Lingerie 101: Coverage

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I found it nearly impossible to keep myself from comparing the British full bust brands with the Polish ones I encountered. It was the biggest challenge of my trip and I believe it's an easy mistake to make when ordering internationally. If we approach these producers as if they're the British brands in disguise, we will continually be disappointed, frustrated, and confused. The British brands preach a singular and consistent message about correct bra fitting, proper breast appearance, and technical construction. It's inevitable that their devoted converts -- and I count myself as one! -- would want to apply their mandates to other lingerie cultures. However, if we remove our familiar conceptions of how these companies should be, we can understand Polish lingerie in it's own context. Jumping from cleavage to coverage, this post examines the type of bras I found surprisingly abundant and others I noticed were scarce:
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Polish Lingerie 101: Location

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Corin Amanda
 I found it nearly impossible to keep myself from comparing the British full bust brands with the Polish ones I encountered. It was the biggest challenge of my trip and I believe it's an easy mistake to make when ordering internationally. If we approach these producers as if they're the British brands in disguise, we will continually be disappointed, frustrated, and confused. The British brands preach a singular and consistent message about correct bra fitting, proper breast appearance, and technical construction. It's inevitable that their devoted converts -- and I count myself as one! -- would want to apply their mandates to other lingerie cultures. However, if we remove our familiar conceptions of how these companies should be, we can understand Polish lingerie in it's own context. This post discusses how Poland's location may have effected it's collections or design direction: 

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Samanta

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Semi #335
In the early nineties, Czesława Listwan and Elżbieta Adame created their own lingerie brand, with help from their friends and family. Bras were hard to come by and intricate lingerie was all but extinct in Poland. They intended Samanta to be a different breed; their products would be feminine, comfortable and tailored to the female shape. The label initially stayed local, but at an 1999 industry fair in Poznan, the company emerged as a nation wide commodity. Very quickly, they realized that the traditional chain of sale, from the company to distributing warehouses to retailers, wasn't working and they broke away from the middle man. It was a revolutionary step at the time and ensured that the company would have easy, unfiltered access to their retailers and customers. Four years ago, Samanta divided it's brand into three smaller collections: Samanta, Pret a Porter, and Glamour.
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NYC Press Day: Panache

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Behind the Scenes at Panache
For a few seasons now, I've felt lukewarm towards Big Mamma P. They had remarkable success with their sport's bra, the Tango celebrated it's tenth birthday, and the rest of the collection seemed to be resting on it's laurels. I shouldn't dismiss these accomplishments lightly. Bras can debut and die in the same season so that the Tango has been popular enough to warrant a decade of production is no small feat. The reaction to the sports bra was unreal; it's the stuff C.E.O.s dream of. Finally, there was the big dark horse of the whole shebang, the Jasmine. It slipped under my radar, but every blogger who has tried it, or store owner who has stocked it, raves about that bra. But for Autumn/Winter 2013, the entire Superbra range came roaring back with a vengeance. Consider the prettiness:

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NYC Press Day: Masquerade

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Alice Slip, 28-38 D-G
I've heard from brand representatives and fellow bloggers that the Autumn/Winter 2013 collection is an improvement over recent Masquerade seasons. I've revered the brand for some time, but the luxe label from Panache has been lost in the woods. I'd agree that this group is stronger and I'm still disappointed.
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Mix & Match Swimwear: Full Bust Tops & High Waist Bottoms

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The suit that started it all -- Modcloth Cutie Pie Picnic Two Piece by Lucy B.
I was sitting around the other day on my computer, pitifully dwelling in a well of retail envy. As many of you already know, I'm crazy for retro details like puff sleeves, kitschy prints, and anything high waisted. I was scrolling through Modcloth's pin-up inspired bikinis and silently whining that none of the two piece sets came in full bust sizes. Granted, there are a few DD+ high waist bottoms floating around out there right now. If you like bright prints, Panache has their Tallulah and Freya has a black option in the Showboat range.  I love the texture of the Showboat, but I wanted something a little more over-the-top (see above) and striking. I decided to play around and see how many different combinations I could make with full bust bikini tops and high waist bottom options. The results:
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NYC Press Day: Reader Questions for Panache

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Last week, I posted that I'd be visiting Panache and Eveden headquarters in New York City. Almost all of my meetings begin with the greatest question: what feedback have you received from your readers? So, to stay up to speed on what y'all are into, I called for questions, comments, and requests on my Facebook page and Twitter account. Here's what you guys had to say for Panache and their answers:

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Guide to Samanta's Constructions

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Samanta's Siva #922 & brief #500 (SS 13 Fashion)
Samanta organizes their bras by category (elegant, seductive, classic) and cup shape (shallow, deep, or very deep). They also recommend "matches" by indicating what type of tissue (firm, soft, small, big, etc.) works with a particular style.  Their fashion collections, which come out in the usual order, operate differently.  Unlike the British brands, who offer one or perhaps two constructions in a given debut line, Samanta offers several. The brand debuts fewer new lines overall, but with significantly more variety within those lines. For instance, the Siva fashion (SS13) has five different constructions. Or within the basic Papilio group, there are currently seven shapes available. They also guarantee that they put out one new construction per season so there's always something fresh to try.
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NYC Press Day: Freya

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Totally Tartan Padded Half Cup (July)
 Last week at my press appointment, I experienced my typical reaction to Freya  -- a combination of "Argh!" and "Ohmygod I want that!" -- but then something shifted. I did something totally out of character: I fought for bras I wanted to see from Freya!! On Miss Underpinnings, I have no problem articulating what I want, but in meetings, I'm too busy taking pictures, absorbing information, and I'll admit, I get a little shy. So, what changed? Well, I know I could not have done it without you guys. Your questions fill me with confidence and make me realize, hey it's okay to ask for things you'd like to buy! It might seem obvious, but it's taken me more than a year and a half to get to this point. I'm sending a big thank you your way. So, now I'm asking everyone in the comments -- if you could design a new Freya bra, what would it be?
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Avocado

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Chloe
Twelve years ago, Avocado was born out of a gap in the lingerie market. Joanna and Anna Lejwoda, the sisters behind the company, were unsatisfied with the ubiquitous matronly bras in their sizes. Felina and Triumph were the only companies creating full bust options in large quantities, but they found their bras too conservative and the size range too restrictive. The Lejowdas admired the French aesthetic and eventually found that while their bras were stunning, they weren't practical for everyday wear. They wanted to create a company that would combine the elements they couldn't find in the market and would align with their sophisticated taste. Avocado basics are simple -- almost minimalist -- but retain an element of whimsy and elegance. Their collection has the boldest, bravest, most impeccable pieces I've ever seen. I'm pleased to show you Avocado, a brand I've definitely fallen for: 
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Are you curious about ordering from Avocado?

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This morning, I received an email from Paulina Giżycka, who is my contact at Avocado. She wrote to tell me she had read your comments on the post and wanted to help. If you're wondering about wire width, would like to know more about ordering or need help figuring out your size, she's your gal. I talked with Paulina when I visited the Avocado store and she's one of the sweetest people I've ever met. I guarantee you'll be in good hands. :)

Her email is info@avocado.com.pl.  

Ewa Bien

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Driada (Bra style B230)
Ewa Bien began under unique circumstances and advanced to it's current position with confidence, energy, and incomparable design direction. After graduating with a degree in ecological biology, the eponymous founder could not find a job in her field. She began designing children's clothing and then, women's swimwear and simple lingerie for straight size busts. Ten years ago, the company realized the full bust niche market was expanding and began adapting their designs for DD+ women. Let's take a look at this spark plug:
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NYC Press Event: Fantasie

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Behind the scenes: Eveden NYC's Wall of Bras (Fauve on the left, Fantasie on the right)
For Autumn/Winter 2013, Panache Superbra and Fantasie had a lot in common. In the past, both brands leaned in the "mumsy" direction while refusing to sacrifice a terrific fit. They were both conservative and reliable collections that sometimes left me a little drowsy. But both companies have rolled out strong, interesting designs for this season and there's an undeniable freshness in their approach. Panache has focused on designing new basics in the wake of their success with the Jasmine and continued popularity with the Andorra, while Fantasie has transformed many of their basics into sexy fashion.

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DD+ Outfit: Hello Peplum, It's Great to Finally Meet You

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The weather was practically begging for an outfit post yesterday. I've been terrible about keeping these up, I'm such a wimp about taking pictures outside. I hate the cold! I don't know how other bloggers do it, their secret must be really, really cool coats. Now, I'm late to the party on this trend, but let's talk about peplum. Are you opposed? In favor?
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A Eulogy for Fauve's Delphine & a Giant Gap in the Market

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Bronte Plunge Balcony in Jade
At press appointments, I try to hold it together because I have a misleading baby's face, I want to eat all the free mini-cupcakes and my make up has already begun to melt because New York makes me intolerably sweaty. I try to keep my professional demeanor intact and avoid begging, whining, and squealing. When we got around to talking about Fauve in the Eveden meeting though, I became slightly unreasonable. Why, you ask? Because they're murderers...
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Ewa Michalak Workshop Tour

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When I stepped off the bus in Lodz to meet with Ewa Michalak, her son Dominik kindly met me and accompanied me to the studio. Lodz, Dominik quickly volunteered, is not the most beautiful city in Poland. By this point in the trip, I had briefly visited three major cities: Warsaw, the modern and wealthy capital; Krackow, a historic center of education and culture; and Poznan, what a native described as "just a regular city where people live and work". In comparison, Lodz enjoyed it's golden age during the Industrial Revolution and like the manufacturing cities in Northern England, it focused it's attentions on commerce and production, rather than arts or politics. Today, it's a center for Polish full bust lingerie, with Comexim, Kris Line, Corin and Ewa Michalak all situated in the city or surrounding area. Down a narrow alleyway, Dominik drove us to a rather nondescript office building. Ewa Michalak's atelier is situated on one of the upper floors, hiding away the lingerie magic happening inside.
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